Fine dining with inventive menus. A fabulous, Beatle-themed garden display. And a memorable kayak ride with one of the most engaging tour guides I’ve ever encountered.
I recently spent two days bopping around Sarasota, Florida, enjoying craft cocktails, checking out fabulous, white-sand beaches and poking my head into casual, boutique shops. There was some damage to the region from Hurricane Helene and Hurricane Milton last year. But almost all businesses and hotels are up and running, and I don’t think I saw more than two or three damaged properties in more than 48 hours in the city.
Here’s a look at some great things to see and do, as well as places to eat and a well-priced, attractive place to stay.
THINGS TO DO
Shopping
St. Armand’s Circle, which is just a block or two from the beach, is the centre of the Sarasota shopping scene, with stores that include Tommy Bahama, Olivia women’s clothing, and Earth cosmetics. There are also some casual, cheeky t-shirt places. I visited on a weekend in February and found it moderately busy. “I think everyone’s at the beach because it’s warm and it’s the weekend,” one shopkeeper told me. “But it’s been pretty solid so far this winter.”
Indeed, the sidewalk tables at both Colombia Restaurant (see below) and Venezia Ristorante were packed with diners on a sunny and perfect 23 degree Celsius (73 Fahrenheit) day.
More casual shops and t-shirt/souvenir stores can be found in Siesta Key Village, which has a funky beach town vibe.
Art Walk
I had a marvellous time at the 37th annual Downtown Sarasota Festival of the Arts, where they close off several blocks of Main Street once a year for pedestrians and have hundreds of booths with local art work on display. The range of the displays was nothing short of astonishing; everything from acrylic paintings in vivid colours I didn’t know existed to blown glass that looked like the wings of an angel and paintings that showed a flamingo holding chopsticks with a piece of sushi dangling from the tips.
One artist I spoke with builds wonderful pieces of work that combined shiny, wavy copper with dark, polished wood. “I’m third generation,” he told me with justifiable pride.
A few yards down the road I spot with looks to me like Zimbabwean stone art, which I’ve seen people carve at a since-closed garden outside Toronto. He tells me he’s from the Shona tribe in Zimbabwe. I admire his intricately carved figurines, including powerful-looking women and intricately interwoven giraffe figures. The man is busy working on a sculpture at the side of the road so I can see the magic in front of me. I ask him how long a typical figurine might take to design. “I can’t say,” he says with a smile. “It’s all about inspiration.”
For those who might not be so interested in art, the festival also included booths with sparkly bracelets and women’s cover ups. There are carts selling coconut juice, popcorn, Italian sausage and other goodies, and several restaurants on the street were open for business, including Mademoiselle Paris, which makes fine pastries and bread and has several outlets in this part of Florida.
There’s a farmer’s market downtown every Saturday from 7 a.m. to 1 p.m., with vendors set up on several streets near the intersection of Main Street and Lemon Avenue.
OUTDOORS
Marie Selby Botanical Gardens: A Beatle Connection
As an avid gardener back home (mostly containers and hanging basket in my small back yard), I figured I’d enjoy the Marie Selby Botanical Gardens. On the edge of the bay in downtown Sarasota. I had no idea it would be the first day of their George Harrison garden exhibition. I’ve been a Beatles and Harrison fan for 60 years. As I’ve gotten older, I appreciate his music more than ever, as well as his wry humor, gentle attitude and his love of gardening.
The exhibit features photos of Harrison scattered about, as well as plants that he had in his massive garden at Friar Park, his estate outside London. There’s also a small building that shows photos of him and has a short video of him in his garden, which had me on the verge of tears. A nice docent/worker at the garden could see I was a little emotional and came over to comfort me. “A lot of people have that reaction, dear,” she said. “I’ve had couples stand here and put their arms around each other.”
The regular gardens are excellent. There wasn’t a lot in full bloom in early February, but I admired pretty orchids on banyan trees, towering clusters of bamboo, small succulents, petunias, impatiens and a large indoor orchid display. You also get fine views of xxx Bay, and there’s a great climbing rock with short suspension bridges that kids and adults will love.
Kayaking
A kayaking trip on the intracoastal waterway between Siesta Key and the mainland is a great way to get some fresh air and exercise, and to admire lovely, restful scenery and beaches. I had a terrific, two-hour experience with Kayaking SRQ and guide Kelly Rhea, who’s part Cherokee and whose Scottish ancestors fought against Robert the Bruce.
Rhea guided a group of mostly introductory level kayakers along the intracoastal, talking about the history and flora and fauna of the area. At one point we were talking about, I think, an old TV show.
I asked the name of the actor and he looked at me. He clearly knew what it was but temporarily blacked out.
“If you hadn’t asked me I’d a told ya,” he said with a laugh.
We passed a condo that was damaged by one of the hurricanes last fall and is being rebuilt, as well as a mangrove forest that has collected a couple washing machines and dryers that were tossed into the sky and deposited hundreds of yards away. But Rhea also took us to Midnight Pass, which used to be clogged with sand and somewhat polluted, but which one of the hurricanes blew open. That has allowed sea water to again mingle with fresh water in the area, which has improved the area as a habitat for fish and birds.
“The nutrients in the water feed the mangroves, which convert carbon to oxygen like nobody’s business and are important for the environment.”
Rhea notes the damage that storms can do, but also looks at the positives they sometimes bring.
“What nature taketh, nature giveth back.”
Rhea had us stop for 20 minutes on a beautiful beach at Midnight Pass, where I picked up a half-pound of pretty, tubular sea shells to take back home to our grandkids. On the way back, Rhea helped us navigate a short mangrove tunnel, with thick plants on both sides and inches above our heads.
Siesta Key Beach
This is a lengthy, white sand beach that marches along the Gulf Coast. There’s tons of free parking, but it’s a bit of a hike from the parking lot to the water.
Oscar Scherer State Park
I love state parks in Florida, and Oscar Scherer is a nice one between Sarasota and the lovely, seaside town of Venice. A took a 10-minute stroll around a small lake with a wooden pier and watched a turtle bobbing in the water, then listened to the gentle coo of a dove high in a tree. Located near the park entrance, the Finley Trail takes you past pretty pine hammocks, live oaks dripping with Spanish moss and wild coffee trees, with tiny lizards scampering underfoot. It’s just $4 for entry. They also have stand-up paddleboards and kayaks for rent.
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK
Tzeva
Located at the Marriott Art Ovation hotel downtown, Tzeva is an attractive Mediterranean/Middle Eastern spot with a shaded, elevated patio out front. I had a terrific, house-made hummus that came with pulled chicken pieces on top, as well as pickled pineapple, corn and spices. Very unusual, but very good. “Mix it all up for better flavour,” said my amiable waiter, who moved here a few months ago from Turkiye. “People think it sounds weird but it all works well together.” I also enjoyed toasted feta cheese in a hot, cast-iron pan with pickled watermelon and dukka (toasted nuts that are ground with seeds, herbs and spices).
First Watch
I came for breakfast one morning and was almost overwhelmed by a menu that seemingly had a hundred choices. I enjoyed the morning meditation drink with orange and beet juice (very pretty), as well as an outstanding carne asada beef hash with scrambled eggs. Oh, so good, and oh, so filling. The portions here are almost as big as menu. I’d say the average person could probably survive on a half an order, so consider one main menu item for two people. Other menu items include parmesan/prosciuotto toast, granola bowls, avocado toast, pancakes, raspberry ricotta French toast and so much more. There’s a small patio out front if you want to dine al fresco. I went to the First Watch in Sarasota’s Fruitville district. There are several others, including one downtown.
Green Orchid
This is a sunny, bright dining spot at the Marie Selby Botanical Garden, with a pretty patio. I had an okay calamari dish a “sweet Japanese dressing” that to me tasted a lot like standard sweet Thai chili sauce. They made up for it with a very good coconut curry soup with pulled chicken and julienned red and green peppers.
A Sprig of Thyme
My dinner at A Sprig of Thyme in downtown Sarasota was the best meal of the trip. I had a very good winter salad with greens, dried cranberries, gorgonzola and tons of fresh bacon bits; probably three strips cut into small bites. The duck might have been the best I’ve ever had, and I’ve had my fair share. The skin was crispy and slightly charred, and the meat perfectly cooked. The blackberry demi-glaze was sweet, but not cloying. The dish came with just-right carrots and wilted greens. They have both outdoor and indoor seating, with modern paintings on the wall and a bit of an industrial look. Four thumbs up.
Daiquiri Deck
I was a little leery of a place that specializes in flavoured and frozen daiquiris, but I had a very good poke bowl with ponzu, avocado, cucumber and edamame the Daiquiri Deck in Siesta Key Beach, with a shady table just steps from the sidewalk. and great people watching. You also can order burgers, jambalaya, salads and, this being Florida, fish sandwiches. There are four other Daiquiri Deck restaurants, one on St. Armand’s Circle.
Columbia Restaurant
This is the Sarasota outlet for Columbia, a small chain that started in Tampa Bay’s historic Ybor City neighbourhood in 1905. It’s a lively place most nights, so reservations are strongly suggested. I was on my own so I sat at the bar, which gave me a partial view of the flames in the kitchen. The bartender poured me a powerful and generously sized Sazerac, which was delicious and had more than a dollop of absinthe. I very much enjoyed the Fideua du Mariscos; a plate that included at least a dozen plump, juicy shrimp, several nice scallops and also mussles and crab. It was all mixed up with paprika and other spices and a generous (there’s that word again) serving of pasta. Like many places in Florida, I advise arriving hungry.
Bahi Hut Tiki Bar
Bahi Hut is a classic, dark, throwback bar that’s been operating since 1954. The owners say it’s the oldest tiki bar in the state, and who am I to argue. I wouldn’t say my Mai Tai was amazing, but it was powerful and good, and I loved the stone walls and hula girl artwork. There was a singer performing on the patio the night I stopped in. I later read an online review of the place in which someone called the Bahi Hut Mai Tai “fruity jet fuel.” It’s a great description, and I was happy to borrow it. Ready for takeoff, captain.
WHERE TO STAY
Magnolia Pointe is a Best Western Signature Collection property that’s a bit of a distance from downtown. But it never took me more than 15 minutes or so. The room had all I needed and had some nice, blue-green accents. There was a pretty good, free breakfast downstairs, and a sizeable pool that they share with the Ameniti hotel next door, which is also a Best Western Luxury Collection property. The Magnolia Pointe staff was friendly and welcoming, and they have a collection of beach gear you can choose from so you don’t have to rent a chair or umbrella, or try to squeeze onto into your suitcase.
I didn’t stay there, but the Marriott Art Ovation hotel has a nice rooftop bar. There’s also a Ritz-Carlton downtown, and several lovely resorts on the beach.
MORE INFORMATION: https://www.visitsarasota.com/
