This is a California city that has a little bit of everything. You can relax at a renowned hotel and dine 17 floors in the sky, with fabulous cuisine, craft cocktails and marvelous view of the sun setting over the Pacific Ocean. But you can also take advantage of happy hour and sip discounted margaritas at a casual Mexican place. You can go for a $200 treatment in a hushed, luxurious spa, but you can also stroll the beach for free and pose for photos at the western end of Route 66, hard in the shadow of a rollicking roller coaster.
I spent five years living in Santa Monica and West Los Angeles when I was studying at UCLA. I’ve always loved the beach here, with that view of the Santa Monica Mountains stretching out to the north and west and the purple/orange sun setting in the Pacific.
My wife and I drifted into town for a day and-a-half in September and managed to check out a number of places we hadn’t been to before. With that (and several previous visits) in mind, here are some suggestions for how to spend a great 36 hours in a city that Canadians have been flocking to for decades.
DINING
The Penthouse: This is a stylish rooftop restaurant at the Huntley Hotel (see below). The views of the beach and the Santa Monica Mountains are terrific, and there are also great city views. Try to get there for the sunset. There’s a large, oval bar that’s quite nice and big windows to enjoy the view. There’s lots of white and gold, and the booths have gauzy, white curtains for privacy. The spicy margarita was outstanding, and we also sampled a nice “Thyme and Cucumber” Amnesia with Bombay Sapphire Gin. We had yellowtail crudo as an appetizer, followed by perfectly seared scallops and cacio y pepe pasta with a mound of truffle shavings. 1111 2nd St.
Wally’s: This is a combination restaurant and wine shop with racks and racks and racks and racks of wine bottles that go from the floor to the ceiling; thousands of wines from California, France, Australia and all points in between. There’s also a fine, sweet-smelling cheese shop at the back. We ordered a glass of French rose and a French Cotes du Rhone (sorry, California) and a tasty pizza with buffalo mozzarella, prosciutto and arugula. 214 Wilshire Blvd.
LaLa Land Kind Café: This is a small chain of coffee/juice places that began in Texas. But they’ve expanded into the city that gave them their name, and they have a nice shop on Montana Avenue, the trendy shopping area of Santa Monica where seemingly everyone strolls about in workout gear. I had a “regular” latte, while my wife had the La La Latte, which is iced and served with a dollop of honey. Her avocado toast came with buffalo mozzarella (they love it here) and a sprinkle of red chili flakes. I had toast with almond butter, bananas, blueberries and strawberries. One of the coolest things about LaLa Land shops is that they hire a number of kids who have grown up in foster homes. The store also sells cool LaLa Land t-shirts and caps, with slogans such as “Make America Kind Again.” Try a seat out on the shady, tree-lined sidewalk and watch the Lulu Lemon workout folks parade past. 1426 Montana Ave.
True Food Kitchen: This is modern, shiny spot with a nice patio in the heart of downtown (Santa Monica Place; see below). We enjoyed the hibiscus limeade and had a nice poke bowl with “forbidden rice,” avocado, cucumber, jalapeno peppers, scallion, citrus ponzu, edamame, and umami powder. I can also recommend the Korean Noodle Bowl. It’s excellent food, but expensive. 395 Santa Monica Place.
Casa Martin: This is a low-key neighborhood place a 90-second walk south of the Santa Monica Pier, with good tacos and margaritas. Great deals for happy hour help offset the low Canadian dollar. 1654 Ocean Ave.
Socalo: On the visit prior to this one, we had a wonderful lunch at this Mexican-with-a-California-twist restaurant. It’s a casual, sunny spot run by well-known Los Angeles chefs Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger. Try the Vampiro Tacos or the Mexicali Ceviche. 1920 Santa Monica Blvd.
Father’s Office: They have beers from around the world (sometimes even from Quebec) and are famous for the Office Burger, which comes with caramelized onions, bacon, Gruyere, blue cheese and arugula. In true Soup Nazi fashion, there are no substitutions/alterations allowed. They won a Michelin Bib Gourmand award in 2021. 1018 Montana Ave.
Citrin: This is a fine dining spot run by chef Josiah Citrin, who runs Melisse (two Michelin stars) next door. We were there a couple years ago and enjoyed a fine meal and tremendous cocktails. 1104 Wilshire Blvd.
DOING
The Santa Monica Pier is a delight; with a carnival atmosphere and terrific views of the coast. The pier dates back to 1909 and is a National Historic Landmark. The pier also is the western terminus of Route 66, and there’s a popular marker that’s probably featured in 1,487 Instagram posts every day. The pier also has a couple of restaurants, including Bubba Gump’s and Seaside on the Pier, which has a nice rooftop seating area. Mariasol is a Mexican place at the end of the pier, with inside and outside tables and fine views. The pier also has shops selling t-shirts and caps, and you’ll probably find street entertainers. There’s a fun, old-time arcade and they have several rides, including a Ferris Wheel and the West Coaster roller coaster, which is fairly tame as today’s coasters go, but lots of fun.
Annenberg Community Beach House: If you want to enjoy the beach, this is a great option just a few minutes north of downtown. You’ll find a fun, casual café with tables right on the sand (and inside) and a swimming pool that dates back to when the land was owned by actress and philanthropist Marion Davies. The pool is open from Memorial Day Weekend through Labour Day, and then on weekends through September. They also have occasional “pop-up” swim days when the weather is right. You can tour Davies’ former home, a lovely, white house on the edge of the beach. There’s also an art gallery and a small playground and splash pad for the kids. They offer yoga, stand-up paddleboard lessons, and paddleboard rentals.
Tongva Park: This is a lovely open space just across the road from the Santa Monica Pier. It carries the name of the indigenous people who have lived in the area for centuries and features art sculptures, sustainable plants, a kids’ playground, shady nooks and a pretty fountain. There’s also a splash pad, picnic tables, and restrooms.
Shopping: The 3rd Street Promenade is a lovely, car-free zone that stretches on for several blocks. Look for colourful surfboard art, fountains, towering palm trees and just about every name brand shop you can think of, including Urban Outfitters, Rip Curl and Victoria’s Secret. Santa Monica Place is a splashy, high-end, outdoor shopping complex at the south end of the promenade. The centre includes such stores as Rolex, Nordstrom, Louis Vuitton and Uniqlo. There’s a DJ (naturally) on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays.
Bergamot Station: Art lovers make regular visits to this collection of funky galleries in old industrial buildings in the eastern part of the city. It’s only a few km’s from the beach, so it’s a short drive or an easy bike ride. The station also is on the Expo line, which is part the extensive (and growing) light rail transit system in the Los Angeles area.
Murals: Santa Monica prides itself on its lively murals, with more than 150 scattered around town.
DOZING
The Huntley Hotel: This is a modern and stylish property. It’s just a block north of Wilshire Blvd., but it abuts a residential area and is very quiet. You’re also just two short blocks from Palisades Park, which overlooks the beach. Our room (1601) was quite good-sized and had a nice view of the city and a partial view of Santa Monica Beach. The bed was terrific, and we had a 60-inch TV, an espresso coffee maker, a big desk for working and a bright bathroom with a big shower and Bulgari toiletries. There’s an on-site gym and they have several bikes that can be taken out for a few hours for free. They’re quite popular and might not always be available. If you don’t see any and want to use a bike, ask the front desk to jot your name down on a waiting list. 1111 2nd St.
The Fairmont Miramar is a lovely property that also has bungalows. There are plenty of low-cost, family friendly options, including Comfort Inn and Courtyard by Marriott.
GETTING AROUND
Circuit is a company that runs free, electricity-driven shuttles around downtown Santa Monica (and other cities). There’s also a convenient bus line in the city. The aforementioned Expo line runs from downtown Santa Monica (4th Avenue and Colorado Avenue) to downtown Los Angeles. Santa Monica is a 20-25 minute drive from Los Angeles International Airport.
For more information, visit Santa Monica's tourism web site.
