The unique allure of small-ship cruising is undeniable, particularly when your ship is a sleek yacht carrying no more than 100 fortunate guests. We recently set sail on the Emerald Azzurra from Dubrovnik to Rome with our 85 companions, soon discovering the relaxed and carefree rhythm that would accompany us in the week ahead.
We called on a port daily, and I was reminded that the sensibility of this cruise was rather like being on a river ship. There are simply fewer guests and fewer decks, allowing for an intimate atmosphere. La Cucina is the main restaurant, open for three meals daily with casual, come-as-you-are seating and tables for two – some high tops and lots of fours and sixes – so one can dine with new-found friends. There's also a terrace to enjoy when the weather obliges. Lunches are buffet-style, and the dinners are à la carte with excellent and personable service from the staff.
Guests gather each evening in the Amici Lounge and Bar, both pre-and post-dinner, to enjoy entertainment - and information about upcoming ports and available excursions or some fun games. It’s also the perfect place to enjoy an aperitif and share stories of the day.
Azzurra boasts a fitness room, spa, and enough outdoor deck space, including a small infinity pool and loungers, to enjoy the warm weather. The comfortable, well-equipped staterooms, most with a balcony, have a small fridge, ample cupboard space and hangers, a good-sized bathroom, a very comfy bed, a sitting area, an Illy coffee maker, and a kettle, two refillable water bottles and an HD TV. The yacht also has an underused Observation Lounge, the perfect spot for quiet reflection and sea views, reading or board games and cards. The onboard camaraderie is also similar to river cruising (remember Emerald Cruises originally was a river cruise brand) – and is a highlight of small-ship sailing, where it's so easy to connect with like-minded travellers.
Everyone is soon on a first-name basis – Paul is the Hotel Manager who hails from England, as does Chloe our Cruise Director; another Paul is the talented Head Chef from Scotland, and his cacio e pepe pasta is the best I have ever tasted. Our affable Captain is from Dubrovnik and he regaled us with many stories of his life at sea, including, during the 90's Balkans war, when he returned to the land and became a tank commander to defend his country. And when you meet the captain (which one often does), and he says, "Call me Robert," you know you're in a relaxed, mellow atmosphere and that’s part of the appeal.
As we set sail, our amiable band of sailors and crew fall into an enjoyable, relaxed, laid-back mood and the easygoing lifestyle Emerald Cruises ensures. We are 10 Canadians, 23 Aussies, 42 Americans, a smattering of Brits and a few Europeans coming together to explore mostly smaller or lesser-known ports in Italy. Many of us are retired or semi-retired and well-travelled, with stories to tell, and 28 guests will stay for a 14-day cruise – onward to Nice from Rome. Everyone mixes and mingles as they should, and off we sail.
We embark at dazzling Dubrovnik, justifiably called the Pearl of the Adriatic. Its old town is charming and historic, very walkable, and the friendly locals speak excellent English, are happy to see us and proffer delicious cuisine and good local wine. I recommend at least two nights here before or after a cruise, a meal at the renowned seafood restaurant, Proto, lunch at the Festival Cafe and a drink with fantastic views at the Buza Bar, situated on a rocky cliff and accessed through a gate in the old town wall.
Yachting is an ideal way to visit stunning places that other ships don’t call at – they are too small for the most part, yet so appealing. On a petite yacht like the Azzurra, it's very much about the itinerary and the ports visited. We had six on our schedule, all in Italy, and three were new to me – Monopoli, Otranto and Gallipoli.
We dock at the first three and then, a highlight of yachting, the last three are anchorages so, weather permitting, the crew can lower the Marina platform, offering terrific water toys such as kayaks, paddleboards, seabobs, and even snorkels and flippers. Guests can enjoy the aft deck with its Aqua pool and casual lounge beds and chairs and enjoy a light lunch there – mostly burgers and flatbreads – accompanied by a glass of wine or a beer.
There's also ample deck space on Deck 7 at the Sky Bar, boasting a popular jacuzzi and a great spot where guests may gather for a sail-away.
Emerald Cruises includes a daily guided shore excursion, such as a walking tour to explore these charming ports followed by time to wander independently. We use a Quietvox, which enables everyone to hear the guide along the way, and it can be recharged in one's stateroom every day.
There are optional tours, too, for a fee in most ports. In Sorrento, many chose to spend an entire day at Pompeii, and in Otranto, the 'Discover More' option was an excursion to stunning Lecce, which received rave reviews and cost USD $139. After crossing the Adriatic, we docked at Monopoli and loved the old town with its small streets, charming squares, and baroque Cathedral. We explored Otranto in Apulia. home to a 15th Century Castle and the 11th Century Cathedral. We wandered alleys and streets to a grand piazza with fabulous sea views. Then Gallipoli, enjoying its Baroque old town before setting sail to Sicily and one of my all-time favourite places, Taormina. An incredible place and very much worthy of our time - we walked, toured, shopped, and dined with great delight. We could have spent three days there, not just a few hours. From there, it was the Amalfi coast and Sorrento – one of Italy's most remarkable and exquisite regions and a highlight of any cruise.
The unique pleasures of sailing on a yacht are the casual and informal lifestyle and the intimacy of a small ship. The inclusions in the fare of gratuities, wine and beer with lunch and dinner and complimentary Wi-Fi are also much-appreciated as are the friendly, happy-to-help staff and the terrific port-intensive itinerary.
It's time to try yachting – either in the Med, the Caribbean or Central America. The Emerald Azzurra will be joined by her sister ship the Emerald Sakara later this year so there are twice as many opportunities to pick your yacht and set sail in warm, calm waters.
