Soaring Cathedrals, Al Fresco Coffee and Remarkable Gaudi: MSC World Europa Med Highlights

Open Jaw correspondent Jim Byers in the Cinque Terre region of Italy.

Our cruise on the MSC World Europa started and finished in Rome. Along the way we stopped in Palermo, Malta, Barcelona, Marseilles and Genoa. Here’s a look at some of our excursion highlights.

THE ETERNAL CITY

In Rome, MSC arranged a private tour of the Vatican Museums, including the Sistine Chapel and St. Peter’s Basilica. It goes without saying that it was a highlight of our trip. I don’t remember having seen the Gallery of Maps room with all the great painted maps from long ago, but I loved seeing it on this trip. Truly one of the best tours you can take on the planet. My wife, Barbara, and I also took time before the trip to see some of the major sights, including the Spanish Steps, the Trevi Fountain and Piazza Navona. Barb and I met on a train at the Rome central train station when we were both backpacking through Europe, so it has a special place in my heart.

SICILY

The Cathedral in Palermo, Sicily. Jim Byers Photo

For Palermo, we had an outstanding private guide, Diana Di Bartolo. She showed us the pretty shrubs and trees at Giardini Reali and took us to the Palermo Cathedral. “Sicilians don’t like it,” she said. “It’s too plain for us.” I find many Italian churches too busy, so I actually loved the relative simplicity of the cathedral. After our tour we were treated to a taste of Sicily: a baseball-sized arancini ball with ham and cheese that must have weighed a pound; a massive, creamy cannoli; and a thimble full of Malvasia wine, which was a touch sweet but very nice. We also visited a church where they make cannoli and pastries and briefly toured the city’s wild and packed Mercato del Balaro, which was filled with vendors selling everything from spices to octopus, not to mention a young man on a motorcycle trying to thread his way through the crowd. “It’s an excessive place,” Di Bartolo said with a smile. “But we’re an excessive people.”

MALTA

The beautiful city of Valletta, Malta is a highlight of any Mediterranean cruise. Caleb Miller/Unsplash Photo

We were on our own in Valletta, Malta. It was pricey for the beautiful St. John’s Co-Cathedral, which we saw a few years ago. We instead opted for coffee on the square in front of Caffé Cordina, which dates to 1837. It was a lovely, sunny day and we enjoyed watching the passing parade of locals, business people, young kids not old enough for school, and visitors. One young girl of maybe five was wearing coloured, hippie-style glasses and a tiara, while a woman in a black business suit and very high heels was sporting a tattoo of a pair of scissors. On our way back to the ship we admired the stunning stone buildings of the city, and the narrow alleyways that plunge towards the sea.

SPAIN

The Sagrada Familia church in Barcelona, Spain. Jim Byers Photo

In Barcelona we opted for a guided walk around the Gothic Quarter and a visit to see the outside of the Sagrada Familia, the remarkable church started by the wonderful Antoni Gaudi. I don’t remember the Sagrada Familia being nearly this impressive when I was in Barcelona in 1989, but that was, ahem, 35 years ago. It’s a gorgeous building that’s still a work in progress, but it’s definitely coming along. I found the main Cathedral rather dark, but still beautiful. We didn’t have time to stop, but I was happy to drive past Casa Batllo, Gaudi’s swirling, colourful, exotic building on Passeig de Gracia. We finished with an hour of free time at Poble Espanyol, a kind of Spanish village on Montjuic with architectural styles from around the country. The strolling was nice, but the coffee and ice cream from one of the local shops was even better.

FRANCE

The sun-drenched harbour of Cassis in the south of France. Bapt Miller/Unsplash Photo

For Marseille, we took a bus to the pretty, waterfront town of Cassis, a trip that took us around some pretty steep mountains and afforded nice views of the coast. It was cool and windy when we visited, and there wasn’t much going on. But we admired the boats in the harbour and enjoyed coffee at a waterfront dining spot with a very friendly cat, and I wandered along the coast to take photos on a beautiful foot path that runs east of Plage du Bestouan. We also explored some lovely shops in the centre of town and admired the fresh fruits and veggies at the town market. Definitely a place I’d like to visit again.

CINQUE TERRE

In Genoa we had a special excursion to the Cinque Terre, visiting Riomaggiore and Manarola. It rained in the morning, and there couldn’t have been more than 20 or 30 visitors in either village. “This is so wonderful,” said our guide. “I don’t think I’ve ever seen it like this.” He also offered a tip for visitors, explaining that there are buses to take people from the hillside parking lots to the main parts of each village. You need a special Cinque Terre hiking/transit card to use the buses. They’re also used for the trains that run between the five villages. It costs roughly $10 CAD for a one-day card and about $19 for a two-day card for adults. The trails from Monterosso to Vernazza and from Vernazza to Corniglia are the only ones that require the Trekking Card. Our guide told there are many other nice fishing villages near Genoa that aren’t nearly as busy as Cinque Terre, including Nervi (less than 20 minutes from Genoa by train), San Terenzo and Porto Venere.

Jim Byers

Contributor

Jim Byers is a freelance travel writer based in Toronto. He was formerly travel editor at the Toronto Star and now writes for a variety of publications in Canada and around the world. He's also a regular guest on CBC, CTV News, Global News and other television and radio networks.

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